House Sitting in the Highlands with Hamish
Castles in the sky, or at least close – my house sit in Fort William, in the Highlands of Scotland, came in the form of a Victorian manse, complete with a lively companion… The Highlands have long been high on my list, and I had two weeks to enjoy the fall, with free accommodations in exchange for keeping an eye on this lovely home and entertaining my new furry friend, Hamish. Little did I know that he had 100 times my energy, and would keep me on my toes about 14 hours a day. A Border Collie blend, Hamish loves to chase balls,...
read moreEclectic Edinburgh
How do you know when you’ve landed in Scotland? The men are in skirts, of course! Kilts, to be more accurate (and no, I don’t know what they wear underneath…) Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, was my first stop, with its beautiful medieval Old Town and elegant Royal Mile. The cobblestone streets are lined with shops selling everything in plaid – kilts, scarves, purses, postcards, mugs and key rings, as well as other Scottish paraphernalia. The Royal Mile is crowned at the top with Edinburgh Castle, protecting...
read moreGoing to Galway & Mystical Newgrange
Galway, a fair-sized harbor city on the west coast of Ireland, boasts the usual castle, cathedral, and old town square, but my favorite spot was in the winding lanes of the Latin Quarter, amidst portions of medieval walls, where a vibrant Irish music scene lives in the pubs as well as out on the streets. Galway is also home of the original makers of the famous Claddagh Ring, two hands holding a heart with a crown, symbolizing friendship, love, and loyalty. My first full day was spent visiting the nearby Aran Islands (Islands of Saints and...
read moreMatchmaking and the Art of Perfume & Chocolate
Lisdoonvarna is the matchmaking capitol of Ireland, and I just happened to be passing through during their annual festival. Even though I wasn’t looking to get matched, I admit I was curious, and have to say it’s hilarious! The town is studded with signs about matchmaking, along with hearts and cupids. A friendly old chap stopped to ask me if I’m here to get matched. When I told him no, he asked, “Have any of the old codgers come on to you yet? You should take 4 or 5 home with you; if one doesn’t work out you...
read moreThe Beautiful Barren Burren
What in the world is the Burren? I’d read an article about it on my flight, but it looked pretty rugged and stark so I wasn’t sure I’d like it. Turns out it’s a magical place (a description I use a lot in Ireland). The Burren is a region in County Clare, and means “great rock.” It covers about 250 square kilometers, and the criss-crossing cracks in the limestone are called “grikes.” I headed first to the nearby seaside town of Doolin. The sun was shining, an unusual state of the sky, which made...
read moreClimbing the Cliffs of Moher
The famous Cliffs of Moher are one of the most visited tourist sites in Ireland, with almost a million visitors a year. After taking the car ferry over the channel from Troger, I headed for Loophead first, to check out the lighthouse and walk the loop around the peninsula head, with breathtaking cliffside views, before driving to the Cliffs of Moher. The drive on the peninsula is on some of those quintessential Irish roads – two-way streets, only really wide enough for one car, with grass growing right up out of the asphalt in the...
read moreDawdling Around Dingle
This time I got lucky on a farm (at least in terms of accommodations!) I was a little leery after my other nightmare stay on a dairy farm, but Murphy’s Farmhouse, my B&B for the night near Castlemaine, was delightful. It’s a lovely place, perfectly situated at the start of the ring around Dingle, and they had a single room available, which is something you find quite often in Europe that I rarely find in the US. As a solo traveler, single rooms are much appreciated. It was a day of beauty overload! From the start, after a very...
read moreKillarney, Town & Country
The scenic route from Kenmare to Killarney includes winding roads through the Killarney National Park, as well as rain and sun and rain again, mist and clouds, green green hills, and even greener moss, soft as a blanket. The lakes you pass are worth a stop. I could have stayed and gazed at the views for days. For a break from the car, I took a long hike to Torc waterfall, and spent a couple of hours on a rocky, muddy trail, up and down, mostly all to myself. You can park a 10 minute walk from the falls, but I preferred the scenic hike. At...
read moreKenmare and the Magical Ring of Kerry
Kenmare, one of the loveliest little towns in Ireland, is full of music and magic. My B&B host suggested a few different places for “craic,’ which is what the Irish call fun, entertainment, gossip, news, and enjoyable conversation. In Ireland, it’s all about the music. I’d been told several times to do as the locals do – walk down the street, put your ear up to the door, and if you like the music, go in. If not, keep walking until you do. So that’s what I did, until finally I stopped and listened to a...
read moreIreland’s Wild Atlantic Way
The Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland is the longest defined coastal touring route in the world! Ireland isn’t that big, you might think, but drive around the perimeter, with all of those coves and inlets, and you’ll be surprised how many kilometers you clock. I knew I wouldn’t have time to cover the whole route, so I started in the south and then headed up the west coast to see some of the most majestic parts, for as long as my time held out before my upcoming house sit in Scotland. From the Rock of Cashel, I drove south...
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