Kenmare and the Magical Ring of Kerry

Kenmare and the Magical Ring of Kerry

Kenmare, one of the loveliest little towns in Ireland, is full of music and magic. My B&B host suggested a few different places for “craic,’ which is what the Irish call fun, entertainment, gossip, news, and enjoyable conversation. In Ireland, it’s all about the music. I’d been told several times to do as the locals do – walk down the street, put your ear up to the door, and if you like the music, go in. If...

Read More

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

The Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland is the longest defined coastal touring route in the world! Ireland isn’t that big, you might think, but drive around the perimeter, with all of those coves and inlets, and you’ll be surprised how many kilometers you clock. I knew I wouldn’t have time to cover the whole route, so I started in the south and then headed up the west coast to see some of the most majestic parts, for as long as my...

Read More

Cinque Terre, Italy’s String of Gems

Cinque Terre, Italy’s String of Gems

Cinque Terre (translated The Five Lands), a Unesco World Heritage Site, is a necklace of 5 seaside villages strung along the Italian Riviera. It’s some of the most beautiful and dramatic coastal scenery anywhere in the world (my opinion, but also that of countless others). The colorful villages are linked by hiking trails that wind along the coast, up high through olive groves and vineyards, and down low along the water. The whole trail...

Read More

Positively Positano, Amalfi Coast

Positively Positano, Amalfi Coast

Positano and the Amalfi coast are gorgeous, no question about that. But they have price tags to match. So what is a budget traveler to do? After a little research, I discovered that you can stay in tiny Piano de Sorrento and take buses and trains that link the pricier towns together at a fraction of the cost. And even better, I got to stay in a super affordable hostel in an old Monastery, with bells chiming, lovely staff and some of the nuns...

Read More

Time to Split, Croatia

Time to Split, Croatia

Split is a vibrant town on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, which is known for Diocletian’s Palace, a fortress-like structure erected by the Roman emperor in the 4th century. Now it’s full of restaurants, shops, cathedrals, hotels, and tourists. Note that the cruise ships dump huge crowds here, but if you see the tour guides holding up a flag followed by the masses, just head the other direction. They usually go for the area with...

Read More